American Woodworker - Tool CabinetAmerican Woodworker - Tool Cabinet, Technika-logia, DiY, drewno, American Woodworker
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Cabinet Tons of flexible storage for today’s woodworking tools. By George Vondriska and Dave Munkittrick ld tool chests made by the masters utilized every square inch of space with custom-fit nooks and crannies for all of their hand tools. Today’s woodworker needs a different kind of storage space, geared toward power tools. Our tool chest is just the ticket. It offers a massive amount of storage space that can be customized to adapt to your ever- changing arsenal of power tools. The drawers are inexpensive and easy to make. We built them without mechanical slides and saved about $140. Even without the slides, the drawers extend just shy of full length and glide like a dream. We’ll also introduce you to a timesaving technique for edge-banding casework. This technique eliminates the hassle of cutting and fitting edge banding one piece at a time, plus the nuisance of trying to sand the edge banding flush with the plywood carcase. Our tool chest features cubbies for routers, sanders, a plate joiner and cordless drills.The drawers below store the supplies these tools depend on, plus the usual assortment of hand tools.The step-back design yields a small work surface where bits and sandpaper can be changed on the spot.Adjustable shelves above allow you to reconfigure the power-tool storage as you replace old tools and add new ones. 1 American Woodworker Tool O 2 American Woodworker Tools and Materials All you need to build this cabinet is a tablesaw, a stacking dado set and a drill. The entire project will cost less than $350. The cabinet and drawer boxes are made from 3/4-in.-birch plywood. Drawer bottoms and cabinet backs are 1/2-in.-birch plywood. Edge banding, drawer fronts and drawer runners are made from solid birch. Note: You can save $30 to $40 if you build the drawer fronts out of plywood. Also, this project is a perfect opportunity to use less- expensive No. 1 common birch. The small pieces make it easy to cut around any defects. FUTURE DRAWER SIDES AUXILIARY FENCE DRAWER SIDE BLANK 1 Rabbet the ends of both drawer blanks. It’s easier and more accurate to rabbet seven drawer sides at a time and then rip the blanks to final size. Go ahead and rabbet the case sides while you’re at it. LOWER CABINET SIDE HARDWOOD EDGE BANDING CAUL 2 Dado the case sides for the drawer runners and the banding to the plywood after the dadoes and rabbets are cut. Don’t forget to edge-band the bottom of the lower cabinet sides.They act like skids and protect the fragile plywood ends. MARK BOTTOM- DRAWER RUNNER DRAWER RUNNER 4 Glue the drawer runners into the carcase sides. 5 Add weights to the two sides set face to face to ensure 3 American Woodworker bottom shelf. Label the top and bottom to make sure you get the dadoes located correctly (see Fig.A). 3 Use clamps and a caul to add hardwood edge Mark the dado for the bottom shelf so you don’t accidentally glue a runner in the wrong place. the runners are seated completely in the dadoes. Use some scrap plywood to protect the case side from your weights. Fig. A Dado Layout Cut the dadoes in the top half first. Then rotate the piece and work from the bot- tom up. This keeps the dado blade close to the fence where it’s easier and safer to feed the stock. Fig. B Exploded View Build the Cabinets 1. Rough-cut the plywood down to manageable sizes using a circular or jig saw. 2. Cut the cabinet parts (A, B, C and D) to finished size on the tablesaw. Label the top, bottom and back of the lower cabinet sides (A). 3. Cut two drawer-side blanks 23-1/4-in. long x 24- in. wide. Even though you don’t need drawer parts right now, this allows you to rabbet the drawers and the cabinet sides together. The individual drawer sides are ripped from the blanks later. 4. Mount a dado blade in your tablesaw. Adjust the width of the dado set with shims to match the thickness of the plywood. Make test cuts and shoot for a snug fit that requires moderate hand pressure to seat the shelf in the dado. 5. Cut the rabbets for the cabinet tops and the drawer sides (Photo 1). Then cut the dadoes in the lower cabinet sides (Photo 2). Use the dado layout diagram (Fig. A) as a road map. Note: You may have to adjust the dado width to fit the hardwood runners. 6. Cut 1/2-in. x 1/2-in. rabbets for the backs (S and T) on the lower and upper cabinets. 7. Glue hardwood edge banding (Photo 3) onto the leading edge of the case parts. After the glue is dry, sand the edge banding flush with the plywood. If you’ve ever had to sand edge banding flush to a cabinet, you’ll appreciate how much easier it is to do the job on the individual parts beforeassembly. American Woodworker 4 8. Cut and fit the drawer runners (CC) and glue them in place (Photos 4 and 5). 9. Notch the hardwood edge banding on the fixed shelves (B and E) (Photo 6) and the upper cabinet divider (D). This is the secret to assembling the cabinet with the hardwood edge banding already attached. The edge banding must be cut back to exactly match the depth of the dado or rabbet. That’s why we made the first cut on the tablesaw. Finish the notch with a handsaw (Photo 7). CUT JUST PAST EDGE BANDING TABLESAW CUT Assemble the Upper and Lower Cases 10. First, sand all of the upper cabinet interior surfaces to 180 grit. Then assemble the upper and lower cases (Photo 9). 11. Cut and dry fit the backs for the upper and lower cabinets. 12. Cut and assemble the parts for the worktop (F and V). Stack and glue them together using weights as clamps. After the glue dries, cut the blank to final size and glue on the 3/4-in. hardwood edge banding. 13. Cut the adjustable shelves (G) and add edge banding. Make the shelves 1/16-in. narrower and shorter than the inside dimensions of the upper cabinet. 14. Cut, glue and nail the toe board (R) in the lower case. 15. Rip 18 birch wear strips. Glue four of the wear strips into the cabinet for the top and bottom drawers (Fig. B, page 4). perfectly (see Fig. C, below). Position the tablesaw fence 1/4-in. from the outside edge of the saw blade. Make test cuts in scrap and fine-tune the fence until the joint is perfect. Push the part into the saw far enough to cut the hardwood edge banding.Then, turn off the saw, flip the part over and cut the other corner. HANDSAW CUT TABLESAW CUT TABLESAW CUT HARDWOOD EDGE BANDING TOP-SHELF EDGE BANDING CABINET-SIDE EDGE BANDING handsaw. There’s no need to be fussy here—just cut behind the hardwood edge banding. banding creates a perfect fit between the mating parts. The notched shelves allow you to sand the hardwood edge banding flush to the plywood parts before assembly. Fig. C Notched Rabbet Joint This “notched” joint simplifies building a cabinet with edge-banded plywood. 5 American Woodworker 6 Notch the shelves and dividers on the tablesaw, so they fit into the case sides 7 Finish the notch with a 8 Careful notching of the edge [ Pobierz całość w formacie PDF ] |
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