American Woodworker - Ultimate ...American Woodworker - Ultimate Tool Stand, Technika-logia, DiY, drewno, American Woodworker
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Ultimate by Dave Munkittrick Downdraft Sanding Table Glue Up Table 1 American Woodworker Chop Saw Stand Huge Router Table Portable Planer Stand T-Slot Clamping System Outfeed Table space saver with more functions than a Swiss army knife. shop space with a car or a washer and dryer, elbow- room is always a problem. This tool stand is the answer. A 2 ft. by 6-ft. section of floor space is all you need to store it. When you’re ready to work, just roll it out, lock it down (these casters won’t budge) and plug it in. It not only stores three benchtop power tools, it provides a working platform that actu- ally improves their perfor- mance. In seconds you can shift from a chop saw station to a huge router table and then to a portable planer stand with infeed and out- feed support. A dead-flat torsion box is the foundation of this tool stand. This torsion box is a sandwich made from two skins of medium-density fiberboard (MDF) and a grid core (Fig. A). It offers incred- ible strength and resistance to sagging. It simply won’t twist out of shape no matter how uneven your shop floor is. American Woodworker 2 An easy-to-use F or those of us who share Chop Saw Stand GETTING STARTED $300 buys all the material you need to construct the ultimate tool stand. We used 3/4-in. MDF to build ours. The only tools you need are a circu- lar saw, a router, a drill, a tablesaw and an accurate straightedge. A pneumatic nail gun makes assembly a lot easier. Butt joints, screws and glue make for simple, sturdy construction. THE SQUARE TEMPLATE Here’s a recipe to guarantee square, per- fectly sized parts: First, rough cut the tops, bottoms and sides about 1/2-in. oversize with a circu- lar saw (Photo 1). Then rip all the pieces to finish width on your tablesaw. Organize your work so the fence is set just once for each dimension. This guarantees that every piece is exactly the same width. Each piece must be crosscut perfectly square. One surefire way to get a square end is to use a straightedge and a router with a flush-trim bit (Photo 2). Once you’ve created a perfectly square 24 in. by 72-in. piece, use it as a template for rout- ing the other three 24 in. by 72-in. pieces. Simply clamp the finished piece over the rough one making sure the edges are exactly flush and the ends to be cut over- hang about 1/4 in. Then trim the ends with a router and a flush-trim bit. Use a 24 in. by 24-in. piece as a template for trimming the ends of the other 24 in. by 24-in. pieces. The smaller parts can be accu- rately cut on your tablesaw or chop saw. The chop saw stand handles long stock with ease. A portable chop saw begs for additional bed support and fence extensions.The ultimate tool stand does both, and set-up is as simple as ABC. DIMENSIONING THE TOOL STAND There are two things to consider when dimensioning your tool stand: 1. The height of the bed on your chop saw. 2. The height of your tablesaw. The tool stand consists of two boxes perma- nently fixed to the top to form a tool well (Fig. A). The 4-1/2-in. height of each box was determined by the height of our chop saw’s bed mounted on a 1/2-in. plywood base. Adjust the width of the ribs (C5) to match the height of your own chop saw. The 34-in. height of the tool stand is just below our tablesaw so it can be used as an outfeed table. If you need a different height for your saw, adjust the length of the sides and dividers (C2) accordingly. WELL A. Pull the saw from its compartment and set it in the well. ACCURATE MACHINING OF PARTS Any part that’s a little bit out of square or not exactly the right size will have a ripple effect on the outcome of this project. Sides and dividers that are not square or exactly the same size will result in an uneven top. Out-of-square tops and bottoms make for poor-fitting inserts. USE THE CARCASS AS AN ASSEMBLY TABLE There are two problems with building a large torsion box: 1. It will only be as flat as the surface you build it on. 2. It can be a bear to clamp up. We’ve solved both of these problems for you. T-KNOBS B. Align the front edge of the base with the front edge of the tool stand and secure with T-knobs. 1-1/2" FOAM BOARD BACKER FENCE STOP BLOCK ROUGH CUT sheet stock down to a manageable size with a circular saw. A piece of 1-1/2-in. foam board makes an excellent backer. Make sure the blade is set to cut only slightly deeper than the thickness of the stock you’re cutting! Remember, MDF is dusty stuff, use dust control whenever possible. MAKE A PART TEMPLATE FROM MDF. Square a straightedge on a rough-cut end, then rout a perfectly square crosscut with a flush-trim bit. Once you have one 24 in. by 24-in. piece perfectly square you can use it as a template for making other square cuts. C. Butt the fences up against the stop blocks and secure with clamps. Elapsed time: 55 seconds! 3 American Woodworker 1 2 FIG. A Exploded View Core Frame Detail MDF is prone to splitting when screws are driven into it.To minimize the problem, keep the screws in about 1-1/2 in. from the front and back edges of the top and bottom.This keeps the sides and dividers from splitting.Also, the pilot holes should be made a little deeper than usual and countersunk for the screw heads. American Woodworker 4 Tip Planer Stand Create a flat surface on which to build the torsion box by building the carcass first. Assemble the car- cass top, bottom (C1) and sides (C2) using glue and screws. The dividers (C2) are fastened with screws only, so the interior divi- sions can be altered for future needs. Be sure all the edges are flush as you build. Use a perfectly square back (D4) to square up the cabinet. Laid on its back, the assembled carcass now provides the dead-flat surface needed to build the torsion box. MARK THE ENDS SUPPORT BLOCK PLYWOOD BASE GANG ALL the torsion box core pieces together and notch them on the tablesaw. Mark the common ends of each core piece so they can be assembled in the same orientation they were cut. Planing large stock is a breeze with this setup. Perfectly flat infeed and outfeed support dramatically reduces sniping.The plywood base is secured to the table with clamps. Note: Height of the support blocks may be altered to suit your machine. THE TORSION BOX The torsion box is designed to resist twisting. It consists of a web core made up of MDF strips notched for easy assembly (Fig. A). To ensure each piece is notched the same, gang cut the notches on the tablesaw (Photo 3). Glue and screw the sides (T2) and ends (T3) first to create a frame. Assemble the core grid (T4 and T5) inside the frame along with the corner blocks (T6) (Photo 4). Place the torsion top (T1) over the core grid and tack it in place. Be sure all the edges are flush (Photo 5). Then weight the top for clamping pressure (Photo 6). Once the glue has set, remove the weights, flip over the torsion box assembly and glue on the bottom (T1). With the torsion box complete, add the casters and the levelers (T7). The carcass is then screwed down onto the torsion box (Fig. A). CORNER BLOCKS CORE GRID BOTTOM OF TORSION BOX CARCASS An optional pullout shelf makes for easy-access storage. SPREAD GLUE on all the edges of the torsion box core.The torsion box can only be as flat as the surface on which it is built. Build it on the carcass laid on its back (which will be dead flat). Lay the bottom of the torsion box on the carcass and assemble the core grid.The corner blocks are attachment points for the casters. Sanding Station BUILDING THE BOXES There are four boxes that complete the tool stand. Two of the boxes are permanently fixed to the top to form the tool well (Fig. A). The other two, the downdraft table (Fig. C) and the router table box (Fig. D) are used as inserts between the fixed end boxes. Assemble the fixed boxes with glue and screws (Photo 7). Add plastic laminate for a durable top. Or, skip this step and simply treat the sur- face with a couple coats of polyurethane (it’s a great way to use up that old can that’s been opened a few too many times). Cut the 3/8-in. T-slots in the top with a dado blade on your tablesaw. Attach the fixed 3" DUST PORT The downdraft table insert captures fugitive dust and keeps your shop andyour lungs clean. Flip it over and you have a continuous top with slotted channels for machining and gluing. TACK THE TOP onto the core grid. Be sure all the edges are flush. 5 American Woodworker 3 4 5 [ Pobierz całość w formacie PDF ] |
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